Tri-X 400

Checked a couple of his images.

I think the Tri-X 1600 would be a better starting point since it offers a lot more contrast that the 400 film simulation, which is low contrast and muddy, but I also have very little experience with Studio Flash Photography, so you will have to see for yourself how that works in the studio.

As a simple guide to further refine the recipe, I can recommend some simple steps.

Do your setup, bring a model to pose for you as you do these edits.

I guess you have, or you are in the process of studying his style of lighting and composition.

Set your model, Set your camera to tethering & take a first shot.

Check on your computer and analize the blacks, the midtones and the highlights

I reckon to come closer to his style, you might need to lower the black level by quite a bit and maybe lift the Black gamma a little, maybe change it to Middle +3 or so.

If you want to have soft but blown out highlights then set the Knee value between 75-82.5% and set the slope to +3 or +5.

Remember the Black Level controls the black point in the scene, where the shadows start clipping. Lifting it you start fading the blacks, decreasing it you start clipping black sooner.

Black Gamma Controls the shadows, you have a Wide, Middle or Narrow range and you can decrease or increase the shadows between -7 or +7

Knee controls the highlight area, by controlling this, you can give your images a soft rolloff retaining some of the details in the highlights or harsh burned out highlights.

hope this guide helps